The Azonto

In a few different blog posts from my most recent trip to Ghana, I mentioned the Azonto dance a few times but never actually explained what it is or how you do it.

A few of us from YCI who were on project together in February and March decided to hit the streets of Accra and start asking random people if they would be willing to teach us some Azonto dance steps.

Check out our YouTube video "How to Azonto - A Lesson for Obruni's"

Click here for the video link. Enjoy :)

The 4 letter word (most) North American's shy away from

P.O.O.P. That's right, I said it! Poop.

Recently, I received an email from someone in the U.S (based out of Seattle) who is trying to set up a small team to start an organization which aims at bringing new light to past issues through visual design. The person who contact me found me through my blog while searching the internet for blogs and people who have been talking about sanitation issues. He sent me the link to his visual design and as soon as I started reading it, I knew I had to share it.

It's so true that most North American's shy away from talking about poop, why is that? While I still haven't discovered the answer, what I have found out is that when you live and work overseas the poop "shyness" disappears! Over the past year a half of working in Africa, I've had many a conversations with expats and volunteers whom I've literally just met and suddenly I find the conversation shifting to poop. My favourite poop conversation begins with "I had a solid one today." This is because, if you've lived overseas before, you know this rarely happens due to change in diet and lifestyle.

I've come to realize that it's "healthy" to talk about poop and rather encouraged, thus ensuring that everyone is and stays "healthy." However, after you read the graphic below you will find that 40% of the world's population is unhealthy due to poop because of the lack of toilets and proper hygiene thus, leaving people to defecate (ie "poop") in the open.

Anyway, enough of the talk, here is the graphic on poop that I was given. Enjoy and most importantly...DISCUSS :)

Here is the link to share with others: http://www.onlinenursingprograms.com/lack-of-sanitation/

 
Created by: OnlineNursingPrograms.com

Things I Take for Granted

On Tuesday I had prepared groundnut soup and omotuo at my new place of residence in Ottawa. Since I only cooked for myself and my friend, we ate the leftovers last night. When I went to reheat the leftovers, my immediate reaction was to grab a pot and heat it up on the stove. My friend, so smart as she is, questioned why I wasn't just using the microwave to reheat it. I proceeded to tell her that the left over soup/stew is better reheated on the stove (to avoid soup skin and all!) but the truth is, using a microwave didn't even cross my mind!

So here is the start of my list of "Things I Take for Granted" :

1. The use of a microwave
2. The use of a washing machine and a dryer (to reshape your clothes!)
3. Using tap water as drinking water
4. Constant running water
5. Hot showers
6. No power cuts to save energy
7. The TTC, OC Transpo or other forms of public transportation in Canada that I have previously bashed! (Sorry ooo!) 

   

   Trotro's: The public transportation system in Ghana. They are crowded, hot and if you get stuck in the back...have fun getting out!

8. Safety and;
9. The ability to walk alone, even at night
10. Health care and;
11. Access to any medication you need
12. Blending in 
13. Customer service and service at restaurants (as much as we can complain about this, it's 100x time better!)
14. Access to a variety of foods (grown locally and imported)
15. Having a Canadian passport
16. Sharing a border with a politically stable, developed country
17. High speed internet
18. Access to free wifi, almost everywhere

What are your experiences?

You can also refer back to the "Things I've Learned" blog I wrote last year from Tanzania

Groundnut Soup Extraordinaire

When I was in Ghana in 2010 I co-prepared groundnut soup on multiple occasions but I never prepared it solo so on this trip to Ghana I decided that I would leave knowing how to perfect groundnut soup.

While working in Koforidua in February I had Mama Augusta (who prepares all the meals for YCI Volunteers) show me again how to prepare the soup. It was difficult to write down the recipe as she doesn't measure anything, it's literally just "some" of this, "some" of that and a "little" of this!

I returned to Accra in March and attempted the first solo mission with my colleague, Danika. It was such a success and such a hit with everyone we lived with. Since then I have prepared it on 3 other occasions and I think I am now ready to share my recipe. 

Note: I've always prepared this dish in large quantities to feed upwards of 10 people so I'm not sure how to make this on a small scale! It's good for left overs though, or just invite all your friends who are willing to try something new...and delicious!

Vegetarian Groundnut Soup with Rice Balls

What you will need:

- 1 head of cabbage

- Garlic cloves (to your liking...I like a lot!)

- 1 large onion

- Ginger (also to your liking)

- Spices (Cayenne or similar)

- Onga (a substitute would be boullian cubes or soup flavouring)  

- Groundnut paste (a substitute outside of Ghana would be natural peanut butter)

- Tomato paste

- Rice

Groundnut Soup:

Mixing the groundnut paste and tomato paste

1. Finely chop the garlic, onion and ginger. If you have a blender or puree, that is even better and less time consuming!
2. Chop the cabbage into fair size pieces 
3. Add 1 cup of water to a pot and bring it to a boil
4. In a separate bowl, combine the groundnut paste and tomato paste. Stir until completely mixed
5. Add 1 cup of water to mixture and stir. Repeat with another cup of water.
6. Add this mixture to the pot of boiling water and stir
7. Add more water to the pot until desired consistency (ie: add more water if you want soup or less water if you want stew)
8. Add in spices and onga (or substitutes), stir
9. Add in garlic, onion, ginger puree, stir
10. Let boil for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally
11. Add in cabbage 5-10 minutes before you want to serve (to avoid soggy cabbage!)

Rice Balls:

1. When starting the soup, add desired amount of rice to a pot of water and let it boil (cover or uncovered)
2. Note: the trick to making rices balls is to over cook the rice so that it becomes sticky and can be formed into balls
3. When the rice looks almost cooked, add more water and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon
4. Keep adding small amounts of water and stirring until the rice becomes sticky
5. When you have sticky rice, take a fist size amount of rice and place it into a small bowl. Add a small amount of water to the bowl so that the rice doesn't stick to the sides. 
6. Swirl the bowl around until the rice forms into a ball
7. Repeat until all rice is formed into balls
8. Now you have "Omo tuo"

Serve rice balls in bowls and ladle soup into bowls. Or, go traditional Ghanaian style and serve in one gigantic bowl and eat communally...with your right hand, of course!

Enjoy :)

Danika makes her first rice ball!

Wasiu gets some airtime on his rice ball

Balls for all!

Two thumbs up!

African Midas Beach Resort

Easter long weekend in Ghana is especially long as people are also given the Monday off as a holiday. I decided to take full advantage of this extra day and headed to the beach, of course.

Normally I head west but this time I took a different direction and went to Ada which is east of Accra by about 2 hours. The town of Ada is not really the attraction but if you turn right at the Ada junction and head in the direction of "Big Ada" to Ada Foah you will find an incredible beach scene where the the Volta Delta meets the Atlantic Ocean. This is where I set up camp, quite literally, in a beach hut for 3 days.

Beach Hut Accommodations

Initially, I had made a reservation at another beach camp along the same shore called Maranatha Beach Camp. However, despite calling a week in advance and then calling again a day before to confirm the reservation, when I showed up they didn't have a room prepared for me, saying that they were not informed of the reservation. I guess it was fate because this lost reservation, along with bad customer service, forced me to take a walk further down the shore where I found the African Midas Beach Resort.

I have never written a review blog but the African Midas Beach Resort was just so amazing and so relaxing that I have to share it with others. After a conversation with the owner of the beach camp and inquiring about how he gets most of his customers, I discovered that lack of advertisement and marketing is hindering what could be a booming business.

So, here is my plug for the African Midas Beach Resort in Ada Foah.

You can reach African Midas Beach resort by car or trotro from Accra. If you take a tro  you will drop at the Ada Foah station and pick a taxi to the river shore where you can arrange for a boat to take you to the Resort for a small fee of 5 Ghana Cedis. If you are not a fan of small, wooden boats, I wouldn't worry too much as the ride is quick and painless on a calm river. Just mind the driver scooping out water from the boat as you go!

The Basics: 

The Beach Resort is by no means a five star Resort As you can see from the picture above, you will be staying in a beach hut with basic amenities, ie: a bed and a bed net. You will share a toilet and shower with the other guests. Price per night is GHC 25, but you are paying for way more than just the basics!

The Bonuses: 

• The floor of the hut is concrete so that when you drag sand into your hut, at least half of it won't end up in bed with you! 
• The toilet is a flush toilet
• The showers have running water, not "bucket showers" 
• There is electricity in the room so you can find your way at night, although there is no electrical outlet. You can leave your tech stuff with staff to charge at the reception/bar where it will be safe.
• It is much quieter at night than Maranatha Beach Camp which plays loud music on the weekends until fairly late at night 
• The staff is wonderful. Friendly and helpful
• The food is amazing and decently priced
• The atmosphere is very relaxing and peaceful with the calm river on one side of you and the harsh, crashing waves of the Ocean on the opposite side
• The water is clean, you are not swimming with plastic bags or garbage

My Recommendations:

• Take a book, or two. There isn't much to do, but isn't that the draw to a relaxing beach weekend?
• Swim in the river side as opposed to the Ocean as the waves and currents in the Ocean are very strong and dangerous
• Order your food an hour or so before you want to eat as it can take a while to prepare
• Bring your own snacks, breakfast food, etc. You are allowed to bring almost everything you need but it's nice to support the community. Plus, food and drinks are reasonably priced. ie: Star for GHC 3 and a meal for GHC 7-10, depending on what you order
• Call Uncle Kofi to make a reservation. He will also arrange for a boat to pick you and bring you to the Resort.

Contact Information:

To make a reservation or to inquire for more information contact the owner, Uncle Kofi at
+233 244 965 078

Photos:

The boat

The boat ride

Along the shore

A relaxing place to do nothing!

Kick up your feet

Sunset

If you find yourself in the Accra area, definitely check this place out as the beach is so much nicer and cleaner than beaches around Accra where you swim with plastic bags.

I rate this resort 2 thumbs up!

For the love of salsa

Shake your skeleton, shake what your mama gave ya. Whatever you want to call it, I love to dance!

Since arriving in Accra, I have been learning and improving upon my Azonto dance moves. The Azonto is the latest dance craze in Ghana and I have been hitting the streets and local bars to learn the hottest moves. I especially love Azonto dancing because the accompanying music is utterly amazing. Where ever you happen to be in Accra, you will hear the same songs on constant replay, yet somehow, they never grow old!

As much as I love improving my Azonto dance moves, I will forever be a sucker to salsa dancing and Latin music and it makes me so happy that I can find a salsa community anywhere I travel to. I'm not sure how or even when my love of salsa dancing started but I appreciate that I can continue learning the moves in Accra. Every Wednesday night I have a free lesson at Coconut Grove Regency Hotel which is followed by 2 hours of dancing where you get whisked around the pool side dance floor by Ghanaian men who know their salsa moves. As long as you remember your basic salsa steps (1-2-3, 5-6-7) and find yourself with a partner who knows what he is doing, two hours can seem like 10 minutes!

Salsa at Coconut Grove has become very popular and it's now known as a place for the some of the best salsa dancers in Accra to showcase their moves. If you find yourself slightly intimidated by the stellar moves of Ghanaian salsa dancers, you can always pull up a chair next to the pool side and watch as partners twirl each other around, secretly wishing you had the same talent, or even half of it!

Oil in Takoradi

After a long bus ride to the Western Region, I arrived in the capital city of Takoradi later in the evening on Thursday. It was really nice to visit Takoradi again for a few reasons, namely that I have not been back since I spent my first 5 weeks in Ghana in October, 2010 but also, to see the improvements in the city since the oil find.

Since the latter part of 2010, Ghana joined the ranks of one Africa's oil producing countries: Friend or Foe? There is anticipation and expectation that the country will benefit immensely but will tensions rise when competition for oil money raises between foreign oil corporations, local government and the local economy? The government is forecasting economic growth to more than double, from 5% last year to 12% this year. It is hopeful that the oil will benefit without tension as Ghana is one of Africa's best governed states.

By spending only a few days in Takoradi, I was able to see improvements made to buildings, roads and new infrastructure in general. However, since the influx of the oil economy, the cost of living in Takoradi has also increased and residents are seeing an influx of tourism, traffic and an increase on rent and food prices. People are expecting to see benefits to their pocket from the oil but this may not be the case, leaving people to uncertainty as to who will gain and who will loose.

The NGO I am currently working for, YES-Ghana (Youth Empowerment Synergy) just finished a project in the Western Region entitled "Youth for Good Oil Governance" where 60 young leaders (Youth Advocates) were chosen from across the Region to receive capacity building and other assistance in order to lead the implementation of project objectives in their communities. The overall goal of the project was to increase youth led strategies for strengthening Ghana's good governance and sustainable development pursuit, focusing on the oil economy.

Throughout project implementation, the Youth Advocates brought together other youth, local authorities and key stakeholders in the industry to raise awareness on the direct and indirect benefits of the oil, debunk job entitlements in the oil sector and the myth that you can only benefit from the oil money by working on the rigs. The Youth Advocates will continue to play a key role in advocating for good oil governance in their communities by keeping dialogues open and making sure that people know they can have a say in the development of their country's economy.

Me with some of the Youth Advocates during a workshop in Takoradi

Read more from the Youth Advocates themselves on their blog, "Youth for Good Oil Governance" or follow them their page on Facebook - Youth for Good Oil Governance in Ghana

It seemed inevitable

I knew it had to happen sooner or later. After all of my time on this continent and all of my long bus rides, I have been rather fortunate in the fact that a) I have not been in a bus accident and b) the bus has never broken down.

I finally experienced the latter yesterday.

I was travelling from Accra to Takoradi for work and I arrived at Carnation station in Accra to catch a bus in the afternoon. I think the entire day stated off on the wrong foot as it was unbelievably hot, I had to meet up with colleagues among the masses of people not to mention ward off those who were trying to entice me to buy their goods or take their bus to Takoradi.

Finally, we all meet up and it was decided that we would take a nice looking, bigger bus, as that seemed "more safe" as one of my colleagues said. I have learned that better looking things do necessarily mean better quality as I have taken some pretty beat up buses with no issues. I should have fought for my instinct.

About an hour outside of Accra the nice, air conditioned bus that we were on made a weird noise. The driver acknowledged the noise but proceeded driving. About 30 minutes after that we were pulled over on the side of the road. Most of the men got off the bus in attempt to find out and fix whatever the issue was. About 30 minutes after that we were on the road again...driving about 30km/h! As I watched cars and buses whiz past us, my only thought was that at this pace a 4 hour trip will take all night.

Finally the driver pulled over and we all disembarked from the bus. At this point it was about 6pm, the sun was fading and I wasn't sure how long we would all be standing on the side of the road fighting to get a seat in one of the buses passing by. Fortunately, we didn't have to wait too long when an empty bus pulled up. As usual, there were some elbows thrown in attempt to get on the bus but I sucked up my Canadian politeness and pushed my way on!

Thankfully, we made it to Takoradi. I will be co-facilitating a 2 day workshop here Friday and Saturday then heading to a near by beach for some relaxation.

Take the good with the bad!

Wedding Crashers, Ghanaian Style

This weekend I traveled to Winneba, about an hour west of Accra, to crash my second Ghanaian Wedding. I use the word "crash" as I obviously wasn't on the invitee list. Mind you, the guest lists at weddings here are much more flexible than ours in North America. Basically, if you attend the church of the bride or groom or know them in some way or through a friend, you will be welcomed to help them celebrate their marriage.

In Ghana, the church service is similar to ours in the sense that the couple takes their vows in front of friends and family and then proceed to the reception where the bride and groom take photos with guests, cut the cake, pop champagne and of course, dance! The difference in the church ceremony is that, at this time the couple is already legally married which happens during the engagement ceremony a day or two before. The church service is to simply have the blessing of a Priest in front of God.

Fred's car decorated for the Bride and Groom

Taking vows

Dancing in church

Two obruni's and the Bride and Groom

Cutting of the cake

Entertaining the children with our dance moves!

Bride and Groom share a dance with friends

Sachets of Things!

One of many things that I love about Ghana is the ability to purchase certain items from any given location.

Picture this: you are in car or tro tro and stop at a traffic light, more probable in a traffic jam, and find yourself dying of thrust from the hot Ghanaian sun. An easy fix is to simply get the attention of one of the sellers by hissing and they will come to your window and sell you a sachets of ice cold pure water from a container on top of their head. Price: 10 pesewas (about 5 cents), Experience: Priceless!

Water Sachets:
If you can't find a water sachet from the top of someone's head, another key indicator is to look for a blue or brown cooler on the side of the street as they are sold on almost every block. I find this very convenient because I don't like carrying around a water bottle plus, by the time I am ready to drink the water from the bottle it is too warm. Sachets waters are conveniently sold in 500mL bags and all you do rip into one of the corners with your teeth and down it back.

Ice Cream Sachets:
The FanMilk company sells delicious vanilla (FanIce) and chocolate (FanChoco) ice cream from sachets along with strawberry yogurt (Fanyogo) and citrus juice (FanDango). These FanMilk products can also be purchased at random during your daily routine. There are a few options for purchase, the best I like to call the FanIce dic-a-dee, which are guys that ride around on FanMilk bicycles and honk their horns to notify you that you can buy a refreshing treat. The other option, like the water sachets, is to purchase your treat from a tall box balanced on the top of someone's head.

Liquor Sachets:
Another favourite sachet option is your choice of liquor in a sachet. I like to opt for sachets of gin which can be purchased for 50 pesewas each (about 40 cents) and mixed with a cold coke or sprite from a bottle. This is my favourite option aside from Ghana's popular beer, Star.

Coffee, Tea and Milo:
Something I've just recently discovered is coffee to go which means it is poured into a plastic bag for your "convenience". You can also purchase tea and Milo (hot chocolate) in to go bags on your morning commute if you find yourself with a lack of time for coffee preparation. When drinking coffee from a plastic bag there are two main things that you should take into consideration before ripping into one of the corners like a water sachet: 1. the bag and its contents are HOT and 2. the bag is very flimsy allowing for ample room to spill all over yourself; proceed with caution.

East vs. West

My first journey across the Atlantic Ocean brought me to East Africa in 2007 when I studied at Kenyatta University in Nairobi, went on a 2 week safari in Tanzania and Kenya and climbed Mount Kilimanjaro. This alone seemed like an experience of lifetime but since 2007, I have been crossing the Atlantic Ocean to gain more amazing life experiences in various parts of the African continent. In 2010, I travel to West Africa for the first time to work with YCI in Ghana. Last year, I was fortunate enough to be chosen by YCI to work for 7 months in Zanzibar, Tanzania. Having spent time on both sides of the continent, and vacationing in South Africa and Namibia, I feel as though it is now time for a new comparison list; East vs. West.

1.     YCI East vs. West:

In Ghana YCI works with the YMCA in Takoradi and Koforidua where YCI Volunteers facilitate capacity building workshops to the students of the YMCA Vocational school in Takoradi and YCI/YMCA Mentors in Koforidua. YCI programming looks different in Tanzania as we work with different partners in all three cities (Zanzibar, Morogoro and Arusha). While the partners are different, the main goal of YCI programming remains the same; to improve youth livelihoods.

2.     Food East vs. West:

Food in Ghana is very different than in Kenya and Tanzania; East Africans tend to not like spicy food whereas in Ghana shito (hot sauce) is everywhere, in everything and is very delicious! I also found food in East Africa to be very dull, for instance, rice and beans in Tanzania is simply plane rice with a small side of beans whereas in Ghana rice and beans is called “waakye” and is a deliciously spicy mix of rice, beans, sauce and hot sauce.

3.     Migration East vs. West:

I’ve found that in West Africa people tend to move around a lot from country to country. I think this is due to the fact that the countries are smaller and closer together and due to ECOWAS (Economic Community of West African States) which allows West Africans to work in a surrounding country for up to 3 months at a time. Also, I feel Kenyan’s and Tanzanian’s have a very rich sense of pride for their counties because even the wealthy East African’s I have met do not enjoy traveling.

4.     Swahili vs. Twi:

In Ghana, Kenya and Tanzania the official government language is English. However, in East Africa, especially in Tanzania, most people speak Swahili over English. I found that in Tanzania, children are schooled in Swahili until they reach secondary school and taught English as a second language, comparable to how Canadian are taught French as a second language. Whereas in Ghana and Kenya, all levels of schooling are taught in English. I did learn a fair amount of Swahili while in Tanzania and now I am relearning Twi, one of the local dialects in Ghana.

5.     Muzungu vs. Obruni:

Everywhere you go on the African continent there is a local word for the term “foreigner” or quite literally, “white person.” In Tanzania this word was “Muzungu” and in Ghana this word is “Obruni.” I think I heard muzugnu more frequently in Zanzibar due to the fact that it was a very touristy place and there was a constant stream of foreigners coming and going. In Zanzibar people would call out “Muzungu” in order to get your attention to buy something from their shop, in Ghana people will yell out “Obruni” simply because they want to say hi or the children want to wave at you and say “good morning.”

6.     Handshakes vs. Greetings:

In both West and East African culture, greetings are a huge part of cultural norms; you would never walk into your office in Africa without personally greeting everyone who is there, while this process can sometimes take a long time, it is always worth it! With Swahili greetings in Tanzania, there are so many different phrases you can say to greet someone and in Ghana you never greet someone without an accompanying handshake with a snap at the end!

7.     Public Transportation East vs. West:

My last comparison is an easy one; in East and Southern Africa, people drive on the left side of the road (like the UK) and in Ghana people drive on the right side of the road (like North America). Everywhere I have been in Africa mini buses are used as public transportation and in every country there is a different word to describe these buses. In Kenya they are called “matatu’s” in Tanzania they are called “daladala’s” and in Ghana they are called “trotro’s”

I hope to continue expanding my comparison lists, maybe on a continental basis, but for now I enjoy expanding my African experiences!

New Year, New Adventures

It's crazy to think that this time last year I was on a bus somewhere in Ghana heading back to Accra from the Northern Region and just yesterday I booked my flight ticket back to Accra; talk about going full circle!

As amazing as last year was, I think that 2012 will top it. I am heading back to Ghana for two short term jobs with YCI which are ideal for my personal career development. The first one, I will be taking the lead on a program development team and through the YMCA, we are to scale up the existing mentorship program in Koforidua. The mentorship program exists to increase youth livelihoods in Ghana and my team will be responsible for scaling up this program so that it becomes sustainable and replicable. Ideally, in 3 years time the YMCA and YCI would like to have the mentorship program operational in 3 other cities in Ghana.

In the second job, I will be working as a M&E Advisor with YCI's other local partner, Youth Empowerment Synergy (YES). The vision of YES is: a world where every young person has a real chance to benefit from and participate in the development process at local, national and international levels. For the month of November, I was studying M&E at the AMREF International Training Centre in Nairobi and I am very excited about putting these skills to practical work experience with YES. As an Advisor, I won't be evaluating  the programs of YES but rather, taking a critical look at how the organization currently monitors projects and then setting up an M&E system that can be carried through to multiple projects. Based on the information I was provided with by YCI, this is what I envision myself doing but of course, I am going in with an open mind.

I have just over 3 weeks left in Canada before I depart again for the long journey across the Atlantic. This time I am taking a different route. Normally, I fly with KLM through Amsterdam and have a ridiculously long lay over in Schiphol Airport. This time I am flying with Delta via JFK and Atlanta straight across the Atlantic Ocean to Accra. This means I have 2 stop overs but each are just over an hour, although I might have a frantic jog through JFK to reach my connecting flight; I still see this being better than waiting around for 8 straight hours. Time will tell!

Week 4 - Graduation

The final week at the AMFRE M&E training course was bitter sweet. We spent the week having some final wrap up lectures followed by only 2 days of compiling an evaluation report for our field work the previous week. By Thursday afternoon we were all unattentive and very tired. Nonetheless, the final report was submitted by me to AMREF on Thursday around 4:00pm; enough said!

On Friday morning we all gathered at AMREF for the graduation ceremony where we were presented with our certificates in M&E joined by the students of the Masters of Public Health and the Nursing students. This ceremony was special as it marked the 25th AMREF graduation. Between the 3 classes there were close to 200 graduates from across Africa, Europe (x3 people) and North America (just me!) with family members in the audience.

Me and my Tanzania flatmates; yes it was a coincidence!

Harriet (Uganda), Tayo (Nigeria), Jill (UK working in Liberia)

Jeff (Kenya), John (Tanzania)

Valerie (Switzerland), Jane (Kenya), Michael (Nigeria), Ruth (Kenya)

On Saturday after graduation I said a last farewell to all the wonderful people that I met, hoping that we will cross paths again in the future, and went back to pack my things. I fell asleep early on Friday as my journey home was to being with an 8am flight back to Zanzibar which meant that I had to wake up at 4:30am and be in a taxi to the airport by 5:30am. After 3 days of traveling, I have arrived safely in Toronto

• Saturday morning: Nairobi - Zanzibar
• Saturday afternoon: Zanzibar - Dar es Salaam
• Sunday evening: Dar es Salaam - Amsterdam
• Monday afternoon: Amsterdam - Toronto

The worst part of the journey was crossing the Atlantic Ocean for more than a few reasons:

1. The plane is always jam packed; thus, not conducive to sleeping
2. After 9 hours on a previous flight the movies are no longer new and interesting
3. Crossing multiple time zones is not fun ie: leaving Amsterdam at 2pm and arrive in Toronto at 4pm and it was definitely longer than a 2 hour flight!
4. Jet lag. Enough said.

So, now what? I am back in Toronto and already looking for my next flight back to Ghana in February, which I cannot wait for! I will be back working with YCI on a short term contract doing two different jobs. The first one will be for Program Development of the YMCA mentorship program that started in Koforidua. The YMCA wants to scale up this successful program to be initiated into YMCA's across the country. The second contract will be for M&E with YCI's other partner YES Ghana (Youth Empowerment Synergy). Throughout this contract, I will be working with YES in order to set up an M&E system to monitor and evaluate program implementation.

As for now, I plan to do a lot of visiting with family and friends before setting off again. I wish I could said I also plan to enjoy the weather but, lets be serious! What I really need to do is start planning my return to Canada for the summer time and not the winter.

Week 3 - Updates from the Field

Week 3 of my AMREF M&E course proved to be very long and tiring as it began with all 7 groups completing their evaluation tool in order to prepare for our field evaluation day at Saint John’s Community Centre (SJCC) on Tuesday. As promised, here are my reflections from the field evaluation in Pumwani District.

Outside the SJCC

Of course I knew the day wouldn’t run as smoothly as planned, especially when you try to mobilize 50 people. We were instructed to meet at AMREF by 8:30am and head to Pumwani by 9:00am, of course almost one hour later we actually left the training centre. We arrived at SJCC around 10:30am, disembarked the bus and were welcomed by the 2 staff members of SJCC and the participants whom we were to be conducting our evaluations with.

Our stellar bus! I was able to relax...because God was in control!

The SJCC project that we were evaluating was a child development program whereby satellite schools, home work clubs and talent clubs were established throughout the communities of Pumwani. The overall goal of the program is to improve the quality of life for orphans and vulnerable children (OVCs) by the end of 2011. The program is currently in its 3rd year of a 5 year program so our work was to be used as the midterm evaluation.

My group spent the previous week designing a Focus Group Discussion (FGD) tool in order to evaluate the Club Patrons whose main responsibility in the program is to ensure that children’s talents are nurtured in order to keep children off of the streets and in school longer. When we arrived at SJCC there were many Club Patrons available to join our FGD. However, since the structure of the day was unorganized and another group from class was supposed to conduct structured interviews with the same set of participants we kept losing participants for our FGD and ended up with only 4 when the recommend amount is between 6-12 participants. Nonetheless, we collected a lot of information from only a few participants but were unable to conduct a second FGD in order to compare the findings. The Club Patrons who were a part of our FGD were very forthcoming with our questions and as a group, we felt like we did learn a lot about the program. However, when all 7 groups discussed their findings on Wednesday we realized that there were some gaps in the information which has thus lead to challenges when analyzing the data and writing the report!  

FGD with direct beneficiaries of the SJCC program

So now you have all of this qualitative information and what do you do with it? As a class, we spent the remainder of the week learning how to analyze qualitative data which is not as easy as it sounds. Thankfully, for this session of the course we have a lively and very intelligent Kenyan facilitator who is Kikuyu and has a hard time differentiating between the letters “r” and “l” when he speaks ie: apparently cows chew “glass” not “grass”! On top of the fact that he is very knowledgeable, I get a kick out of listing to him speak which also holds my attention throughout 8 hours of class!

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As for this past weekend, on Saturday I had a fun filled day of analyzing our quantitative data in SPSS in class. It was a long and full day of staring at a computer and I had to leave around 4pm in order to have my afternoon siesta which turned into a 4 hour sleep on a counter of staying out too late the previous night...Oh Nairobi!

On Sunday I went to Hell’s Gate National Park with two girls from class and Mike and his friend. I have to say that being a Tanzanian/East African resident has come in rather handy in Kenya as I get a discount on all park entry fees which adds up to a lot of money if you have to pay the regular foreigner price...thanks TZ! Hell’s Gate, known for its hot springs was really cool. Our journey started out via a 10K bicycle ride from the entrance to Hell’s Gate Gorge where we hiked through the Gorge to see the hot springs. We intended to bike back to the main gate but daylight, pending rain and tiredness were not on our side. As much as we made fun of Mike for not biking and driving to the Gorge we ended up eating our words at the end of the day. Pole Mike!

Hell's Gate Gorge

View from the bottom

I was officially the dirtiest at the end of the day 

View from the top

Pondering life!

Week 2 - Sampling, Statistics and SPSS. Oh my!

Like most of my time on this continent, my time in Nairobi is flying by and in 2 weeks time I will be back home in Canada frantically visiting everyone I possible can while preparing for my second journey to Ghana in February! 

Last week we finished week 2 of the M&E course at AMREF and the topics covered were a definite learning experience for me. The week started by discussing types of sampling such as probability and non probability sampling which I am familiar with. However, by mid week we were recapping some statistics formulas and learning about the computer software program for data analysis SPSS (Statistical Program for Social Sciences)...both of which I had little to know prior knowledge on! Using SPSS to input data and create tables and graphs is very straight forward but when it comes time to analyze what the tables and graphs tell you, that's a different story! Wow, I was very lost when the facilitator started talking about standard deviation, sampling variance and the list goes on! Thankfully enough, there are people in the class who have studied statistics and are willing to give me a very quick crash course. 

The week ended by doing some group work to create qualitative and quantitative evaluation tools for when we go to the field to conduct an actual evaluation of a current project. I think this will be the most useful part of the course as it gives us a chance to analyze a project logframe, create an evaluation tool, undertake the evaluation, analyze the data and even write a final report for the partner organization. 

My group members and I creating our qualitative evaluation tool

AMREF's partner NGO for AMREF training courses is the St. John's Child Development Project and the project is based in an informal settlement in Nairobi called Pumwani. St. John's lets AMREF students come to practice their skills in return for AMREF students helping to achieve the objectives of the organization. In our case we will be conducting a mid term evaluation of the St. Johns Child Development Project and producing a full report for them in order to provide an analysis of the successes and challenges of the project implementation. 

Relaxing after a hard day in class!

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As for this past weekend, it was very busy but very fun. I feel like I never have enough time on the weekend because there is so much to do and see in and around Nairobi that I forget to just relax. However, there will be ample time for relaxing (aka hibernating) when I return to the cold Toronto weather. This past Sunday was especially busy...I woke up around 7am took a bus to the Nairobi National Park with one of the girls from class. We met up with some fellow Canadians that I know from my post graduate program at Humber College and we went on a 4 hour safari. Although I had went on a safari the previous weekend in Lake Nakuru, the unique aspect of the Nairobi National Park is that is literally in Nairobi city so when you are driving around looking at all the animals you also have an amazing view of the Nairobi sky line. This picture doesn't do it justice but to give you an idea....

After a successful safari (categorized as "successful" [by me] after seeing giraffes, zebras, and lions) I went straight into the city center to wonder around the Maasai Market to buy some (more) Christmas gifts that I am hoping will fit in my luggage somehow! After shopping, my friend from class and I were invited for a home cooked Nigerian dinner. A hand full of the people from class are from Nigeria and a few of them invited us for dinner to taste their local food which was so good and flavourful compared to the bland food of Tanzania. It was very delicious... Please help me think of an authentic "Canadian" dish that I can return the favour with! I never know what to say when people ask "what is Canadian food." Really, what is it?!

Jill and I enjoying some Nigerian home cooking!

Stay tuned for next week's AMREF edition -- Updates from the field!

The Center of East Africa!

Nairobi...where the magic happens! Living in Zanzibar, it is easy to get wrapped up in your own little world and I forgot how much I miss big cities.

Nairobi...or rather, what I have seen of it thus far is pretty alright! When I was in Kenya back in 2007 studying at Kenyatta University (KU) I didn't really get a chance to explore the city as I was ushered around, with 16 other University of Ottawa students, in a KU bus. We stayed on campus which was outside of the city centre and the trip into the city from KU with a car, during rush hour took about 1.5hrs (on a good day!) Without traffic the trip should only take about 20 minutes...that's how crazy traffic is in this city. The first thing I have learned is how to cross the street in Nairobi...first, you look both ways, then when you realize there won't EVER be a break in traffic, you just start walking and hope for the best. My trick has been to wait for someone else also crossing the road and follow their lead!

Nairobi, and its people have been treating me well. For starters I haven't been called "muzungu" once in one full week (not blatantly at least!). In Zanzibar that would never happen so it's very refreshing to be able to walk down the street in peace! Last Saturday when I arrived, I met up with an old friend from KU, he was studying at KU when my group was there and he was our "go to" person for anything we wanted to know or do! He's pretty much played that same role for me this time around as well...thanks Mike :) On Sunday we drove around the KU campus just to reminisce...I forgot how beautiful the campus is and there have been some major improvements including the construction of more than 6 new buildings including a massive library. We were nerdy enough to want to go into the library but they only allow access to current students so we had to convince security that we are alumni and just wanted to look around.

KU Post Modern Library

For those of you who don't know, my main purpose of coming back to Nairobi is to studying Monitoring and Evaluation at the AMREF International Training Centre. The course runs for 4 weeks after which time I can hopefully call my self a specialist in something, or at least on my way to becoming a specialist! 

The main entrance to the AMREF International Training Centre

The first week has been good even though we have just been reviewing the basic terms and concepts of M&E which can be a bit tedious if you already know these concepts! However, the really interesting part so far has been the group dynamics and group discussions.  

One of the facilitators: Dr. Frederick Chelule

I didn't know what to think of the make up of the group before I started. I mostly figured that it would be all men however, in a group of close to 50 participants the gender ratio is pretty much even. Even more interesting is the fact that there are people from all over the continent including 4 "muzung's" (myself, a girl from the UK working in Liberia with Merlin, a Swiss girl working in Switzerland with Medair and a Bulgarian guy). I'd say that half of the participants are Kenyan's and the others represent the following African countries:

• Tanzania
• Ethiopia
• Burundi
• Sudan
• South Sudan
• Uganda
• Liberia
• Nigeria
• The Gambia
• Cameroon

If you pull up a map of Africa, you can see how dynamic the group is and the experience is very rich. Most people are managers at NGOs or work in government institutions, some people already work in M&E and others want to be able to train people on M&E. The funniest thing is is that I moved from Tanzania and I am staying in a guest house with the two Tanzanian men along with the guy from Burundi...at least I get to keep practicing my Swahili! Speaking of which, when I attempt to speak Swahili here people look at me like I have two heads as the language is spoken far less here than in Tanzania. For example, students in Kenya are schooled in English right from the primary level where as in TZ they are schooled in Swahili until secondary school.

So, I think that's all for a first week recap. Stay tuned for the coming weeks!

The AMREF Training Campus